Northern Bali...

The North

Air Terjun (also known as Daybreak or Singsing Falls)

Located near the village of Labuhan Haji, just off the main road about 5 kilometers west of the Lovina area, the Singsing Air Terjau falls are about 12 meters high and cascade into a large deep pool of refreshingly cool water. Swimming is allowed. Further up the hill you can find a second larger waterfall, which has a mud bath that is reputed to be good for the skin. The falls are a fine sight during the wet season but may be reduced to just a trickle during the dry.

Banjar

The Air Panas (Hot spring) bathing pools and temple at Banjar is a popular bathing place, so bring your swimming gear if you want to take a dip in the warm cascading mineral water pools. The hot spring is easily reached from the Lovina Beach area by bemo, and by bicycle (be careful as the roads get quite busy).

Above: Typical Balinese stone carving.

Nearby, through the village of Banjar Tega, and within walking distance is a Buddhist monastery (Wihara) that is also worth visiting. The road to the monastery is signposted, and small donkey drawn carts (dokar's) or motorbike's may be hired to carry walkers most of the way. The road will take you through a small village which provides and interesting insight into the lifestyles of local Balinese rural people.

Tip
	An alternate route from the Air Panas to the Buddhist monastery is via the jungle tracks, which lead the way via several traditional villages complete with grass huts, huge pigs and rather scary looking dogs. There are few signposts, and it is easy to end up on the wrong trail. Be prepared to ask your way whenever you meet another person ("Demana jalan ke Wihara?").

Batur

Well known for the still active Mount Batur which erupted and consumed the original village of Batur in 1926, the town has been rebuilt on the crater rim. The lake views and temple are the main attractions today. One very popular activity is the pre-dawn hike to the mountain peak to catch the spectacular sunrise over the Java Sea. Local guides will take you for a negotiated fee.

Bedugul

The beautifully scenic Lake Baratan with harmonious mountain panorama and lakeside temples. Several levels of accommodation are available in this cool mountain area, but they all tend to be expensive. Be prepared for cold nights, and chilly mornings - a hot shower is worth the higher price here.

Lake Baratan is the source of irrigation water for much of southern Bali, and nearby, situated on a cliff-top overlooking the lake is Pura Uludanau, dedicated to Dewi Danau, the water goddess who ensures a plentiful supply. The lake offers travellers water skiing and boating activities, and a break from the heat of the lowlands.

The area around Bedugul produces much of the fruit, vegetables and fresh flowers eaten and seen elsewhere in Bali, and located just outside the village are the Kebun Raya Botanical Gardens which are said to have over 500 species of orchids, trees and other native flora. The village market sells fresh local fruit and vegetables and specialises in orchids and other exotic plants.

Beratan

Located near to Singaraja, this is a good place to watch craftsmen making fine jewellery. Local product may be purchased at reasonable prices.

Candikunning

Ideally located on the Western shore of lake Baratan, Chandikunning has the picturesque island temple of Pura Ulu Danau, and is only a short distance from the picturesque Bali Handara Country Club, one of the world’s great golf-courses. The golf course is a beautiful place to take a walk, even if you don't play the game (to play a round will cost over USD$70). The accommodation in this area tends to be a little over-priced compared to other areas, but as the climate is far cooler it is worthwhile looking for a warm room with hot water (traditional mandi style bathrooms with icy-cold well water will add some vigour to your day!).

Gitgit

Breathtaking waterfall amongst what should be beautiful and natural surroundings, unfortunately spoiled somewhat by the persistent hawkers, and rubbish left by tourist bus loads.

Above: The short walk from the main road is rewarded by this beautiful waterfall.

Tip
	Please don't leave rubbish or trash (including your empty water bottles) - take it with you and place it in a bin in your hotel.

Kalibubuk

Essentially the area known as Lovina Beach is located at Kalibubuk - an area that stretches for several kilometers along Bali's northern coast to the west of Singaraja. There are a couple of built-up areas with shops, stalls and restaurants, while the Lovina beach accommodations are scattered over the entire length of the beach area. This is one part of Bali that has undergone quite a lot of recent development, so the choice of a place to stay or eat will be quite difficult. Location is one of the keys - be sure to choose a losmen or hotel that has a choice of nearby eateries. Side streets are quieter and nearer to the beach, and a walk through the fields almost assures total privacy (if you want it).

Kintamani

On the agenda of almost every tour offered in Bali, Kintamani almost universally disappoints; the promises of fresh mountain air and views spoiled by the aggressive hawkers. The famous mountain-top restaurant is frankly terrible! Best to visit the smaller restaurants in the village on the main road (look for the place where the Perama and other local busses stop). Rides into the volcano crater can be organised from near the road junction in the village, and although an uneventful trip is expected, the roads quite interestingly wind around, and sometimes over huge volcanic boulders. There are a couple of restaurants and some hot springs on the edge of the crater lake, though these are not major attractions.

Inside the mountain crater are a few small losmen with basic facilities, but which would be of interest to any visitor wishing to escape the tourist crowds. Expect to bath in the hot springs with the villagers. Food at the restaurants in the crater is quite good.

The village itself, at 1500 meters above the sea level is often damp and cool, with a main street that becomes a bustling market place several days a week. The surrounding area is well known for growing cool climate fruit such as oranges and passionfruit.

Kubutambahan

Located 12km east of Singaraja is this small village, which hosts Pura Maduwe Karang, a temple dedicated to a God who ensures divine protection over dry-land crops. The temple has some very fine stone carvings and sculptures.

Labuhan Haji

A Javanese migrants village about 5 kilometers west of the Lovina area, this is a landmark for finding the Air Terjun waterfalls.

Lovina Beach

A restful tourist area on the northern coast, most famous for its reef diving and snorkelling in the mirror smooth seas, and the dolphins that often race with the tour boats. The Lovina Beach area consists of several small villages that seem to start where the last one finished, although they are all spread quite thinly along the long beach strip.

This is an area that has developed significantly over the last ten years or so, however almost all of the many accommodation places remain as small family run losman or middle level bungalows. Wherever there are places to stay, there are always plenty of places to eat.

Above: The Lovina Beach area.

Although not a spectacular resort location, Lovina and its' nearby neighbouring villages make a fine base for exploring the northern part of Bali, or a good place to rest before leaving the island on the way to Java. There are a couple of travel agents who can organise transport to almost anywhere you care to visit in Indonesia (including a Perama Travel office), as well as places to change money (Banks in Singaraja will probably have better rates though).

While suitable for sunbathing, unfortunately, the black volcanic sand beaches in this area are not pristine and are generally unsuitable for swimming due to pollution in the most built-up areas. Take a walk along the beach to find a nice area away from the reef and the accommodations to find clean water for a pleasant swim when the sea is calm. Beware - rough sea's are dangerous for swimming.

Some reports have it that the tourist boats that are supposed to be providing an experience of a life-time - a view of dolphins in their own habitat - tend to be chasing the unfortunate creatures to distress. Watch for boats returning to the beach and ask fellow tourists about their exprience. Book a trip based on their advice. We would not take a dolphin watching trip.

Dolphin watching, snorkelling, diving and boat rides are widely advertised and tickets are sold almost anywhere that tourists gather - but prices will be best if booked directly with the boat-owner on the beach. Remember to bargain for a discount (the price is always negotiable).

Most of the roads along the northern beaches are reasonably flat, which makes cycling easier here than in many other parts of Bali. Beware however, that the roads can be vert busy, especially at night when tour busses are making their way between Bali and Java. There is also plenty of scope for walking, and a stroll of a few kilometers along the beach in either direction will take you past a few small traditional villages and settlements.

Walks along the beach, particularly to the east towards Singaraja are usually quite interesting, although there are several streams to cross (which may be quite wide during the wet season). Several groups of nomadic Bali Aga people inhabit the area. Most prefer to go about their daily routine without being disturbed by tourists, but sometimes they will be receptive to tourist encounters. Walking westward from the Lovina area will also bring occasional encounters with traditional villagers and fishing folk.

Sitting on the beach for any length of time will surely attract hawkers, offering fruit, wood carvings and sarongs. These days the hawkers along the Lovina strip are fairly aggressive compared to past times.

Dusk will bring some very attractive sunsets to Lovina, and as darkness descends, local Balinese fishermen appear on the reef with lights to attract fish, making an even more interesting and spectacular scene. Interestingly, after dark you may notice a species of plankton (Lucae) that appear to glitter like small pieces of gold in the shallow water along the beach.

Pancasari

Known for its famous golf course, the "Bali Handara Country Club". This is set in the most beautiful gardens and the cool of the mountains is refreshing after the lowland heat and humidity. It is possible to change money at the club-house (but very expensive to play a round).

Penelokan

Literally meaning "the place for looking", this fascinating viewing spot overlooks the still active volcano crater and Lake Batur. Stop the car for a great photo.

Pulaki

Located about 50 kilometers east of Singaraja, Pulaki is quite surprisingly the centre of Bali's grape growing region, which produces table grapes, raisins and even wine. The village has an attractive temple, set between lush jungle and the towering cliffs of Bali’s north-eastern coast. Like many Balinese temples, Pura Pulaki is occupied by a large troop of monkeys, which appreciate free food and whatever belongings they can pilfer from unsuspecting tourists.

Pulau Menjangan

Located near the extreme north-western tip of Bali, this tiny island can be reached by boat, chartered from Labuan Lalang. Accommodation is usually possible (ask before leaving Bali). The reward is fantastic snorkelling and diving on beautiful coral reefs (bring your own gear, or organise equipment from a dive centre in Kuta or Sanur).

Sangsit

On the northern coast, a few Kilometers east of Singaraja, Sangsit is the site of Pura Beji, a pink sandstone temple dedicated to Dewi Sri (the Hindu goddess of agriculture). The temple is features carvings of demons, divinities, and mythical animals, and carved naga snakes that guard the entry.

Singaraja

The principal town of Northern Buleleng District, and formerly the capital and major seaport of Bali, Singaraja is a busy city, and has a major bus station.

Most travellers head straight for the Lovina beach area, about 10km (6 mi) to the west, but Singaraja has some attractions, and is not short of good restaurants, hotels and losmens.

The city has unusually wide streets, and is a major commercial centre, but it still shows signs of the centuries-old Dutch influence, particularly around the seaport.

The Gedong Kirtya Museum is well known for its old manuscripts carved into lontar palm leaf. This is an assemblage of the history, mythology, folklore, science, medicine and religion of the Balinese people, established by the Dutch in 1928. The manuscripts are considered to be so sacred that many Balinese fear entering Gedung Kirtya where they are housed in case they are cursed by spirits.

A once viable citrus industry was devastated by plant disease a few years ago, but recently the local farmers have begun growing grapes. Perhaps a local table wine industry will rise from these humble beginnings?

The city may also be of interest to the traveller as a transport interchange, for bank transactions, medical and tourist information services etc.

Toya Bungkah

Set on the shores of Lake Batur, Toya Bungkah is known for its hot spring bathing pool. The drive across the crater in Mt. Batur reveals some amazing road-building techniques, although the spring itself is not spectacular.

Trunyan

An ancient village located on the eastern shore of Lake Batur, Trunyan has retained the traditions of lifecycle rituals and taboos that still fascinate visitors and anthropologists.

Yeh Sanih (Air Sanih)

Tranquil beach with fresh water spring and swimming pools. Simple accommodation and restaurants cater for the small number of visitors who stop over in this area. An interesting sight is that the temple carvings include some unusual sculptural details such as a vintage car, a man riding a bicycle, and an aerial dogfight!

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