Bali: The Online Travel Guide

Eastern Bali...

The spectacular coastal road of eastern Bali is an adventure in its own right, with tall mountains on one side and stunning cliffs and raw ocean views on the other. Some of Bali's best diving opportunities are found at Amed and Tulamben in the north-east and around Padangbai further south, where thousands of colorful tropical fish swim amongst the the hard and soft coral reefs. Few eastern villages encounter large numbers of tourists, and may be ideal for those who wish to avoid tourist crowds. One exception is the sacred Mother Temple, on the slopes of Mount Agung. This most holy of Balinese temples is frequently visited by devotee's of Hinduism, Bali's predominant religion, and tourists alike.

Amed

Amed is located on the eastern coast of Bali near Alumpura, and is an ideal quiet seaside village that offers fishing or snorkelling (can be arranged at the low cost guest houses), and diving on the nearby reef and at Tulamben.

This area of north-eastern Bali, with its beautiful crescent shaped beaches of white sand blended with smooth dark gravel has only recently been discovered by tourists, and still retains its small fishing village charm. Other local industries include salt collection. A few losmen have sprung up to cater for travellers who want a quiet escape from the hotel crowds. Amed has a coral garden that starts right off the beach, with staghorn coral and huge schools of chromis fish making this Bali's best snorkelling area. SCUBA divers normally hire local fishermen to take them on the short boat ride to the popular local dive site, which has a beautiful coral garden, many species of reef fish, turtles, stingrays and parrot fish.

Amlapura

The principal city of Karangasem district of Bali, Amlapura is sometimes known as Karangasem. The village is located in a fertile valley where the main road from Klungkung descends over the edge of the Gunung Agung plateau.

From Amlapura, a road leads south to the coast at Ujung, and on to the well-known Water Palace, which is the area's most famous attraction.

The old Palace of the Raja, Puri Kanginan was built early in the 20th Centuary, but was badly damaged during the earthquakes that accompanied the 1963 aruption of Mt Agung. As a result, the palace appears to be an ancient relic. The largest pavilion within the palace complex is called Bale London, so-called because the furniture it contains bares the crest of the British royal family.

Today, the village is rather sleepy, and has few accommodations or restaurants, although the peaceful and attractive town offers a soothing change of pace.

From Amlapura the road continues north to Tirtha Ayu, the location of former royal bathing pools, and on to the arid northeast coast, passing many beautifully terraced rice fields on the way toward Tulamben.

Besakih

The biggest temple in Indonesia, the Mother Temple is situated a thousand meters above sea level on the slope of the sacred and still active volcano, Mount Agung (3140m). Every year thousands of pilgrims, and many thousands of tourists flock to this temple, which consists of 18 towering grass-thatched pagodas spread along the roadside on the steep mountain slopes.

The entire temple complex was destroyed or badly damaged in the 1963 eruption of Agung, but since then has been almost fully restored. You will notice many pagoda roofs are now made of iron.

The original temple on the site predated the arrival of Hinduism in the 11th century, and was built in honour of the spirit of the volcano Gunung Agung. Today Besakih is considered the principal state temple, venerating the Hindu Bali trinity Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva.

The Pura is divided into several minor temples, each dedicated to a particular deity; the Trimurti: three shapes of the supreme God, the Panca Dewata: gods of direction, Pura Puseh: temple of origin, Pura Desa: temple of community and Pura Dalem: temple of the dead.

Pura Besakih has over 50 festivals each year, so your chances of being in Bali during at least one is high.

The temple is open from 6:30-18:00, and has an entry fee of about Rp.2,000.

Catch Bemo's from Ubud or Denpasar (Batubulan terminal) to Gianyar, the change to a bemo to Klungkung. A bemo to Besakih is generally available, but on some occasions it may be necessary to change at Rendang. Leave early as it may be difficult to make the return journey late in the evening.

Blue Lagoon (Padangbai)

The lagoon is situated near Padangbai's harbour, about 5 minutes away by fishing boats, which may be hired locally.

On one south side of the harbour, a reef of soft and hard corals drops vertically to 20 meters, and continues into a sandy area. Schools of fish abound, making the lagoon an excellent site for snorkelling, swimming or even sight-seeing and sunbathing. The blue lagoon is one of the best sites to start your diving trip in Bali, or to take beginner SCUBA lessons.

Candidasa

Set at the foot of the majestic Mt. Agung, the white sandy beach of Candidasa is only visible when the tide is out, but the grassy foreshore and beach are great places to catch the sun and recharge the weary traveller's batteries (usually after the long bus trip from Singaraja). If you want a sandy beach, travel the short distance from Candi Dasa to Buitan Beach, which is less affected by the tides. Local bemo's make the journey at regular intervals.

Candidasa is an excellent base for daytrips around Eastern Bali. Tenganan, Goa Lawah, Amlapura and Padangbai are all within easy reach, and good diving is available a little further afield at Tulamben, where a US ship sunk during WWII may be viewed in its underwater resting place. Local dive shops will assist by providing hire of equipment and transport if required, and fishermen will hire their traditional prahu fishing boats for snorkelling expeditions on the nearby reefs.

Above: Map of Candidasa.

A wide range of accommodation and restraunts exist, but prices may sometimes seem out of touch with the standard--take the time to shop around, as some of the small family run places offer the best value compared to the larger corporate owned hotels that overlook the beach.

Candidasa also has some larger shops where the traveller may stock up on food items such as bread, breakfast-cerial and other consumer items that are not generally available in the markets.

This area is one that is now being established by international travel agents, so those wishing to escape the tourist crowds and international jet-set may prefer to find accommodation in the nearby villages such as Padangbai, and visit Candidasa for shopping and changing money.

Iseh

This area was chosen as the home of famous artist Walter Spies, who settled here in the 1930s while seeking respite from Campuan. These are also some of the most beautiful areas of Bali, it's fertile soils sprouting all kinds of vegetables and crops. The views of Gunung Agung form a spectacular backdrop, something of a paradox as this area suffered badly from the 1963 eruption.

Accommodation options are very limited, but the nearby village of Sideman does have a low cost homestay that offers rooms with all meals included in the low rate. Sideman can be reached by bemo directly from Klungkung.

Goa Lawah (The Bat Cave)

One of Bali's most famous caves, situated in a temple courtyard and inhabitted by thousands of bats. Hold your nose if you must, and be fascinated by this crazy, noisy and somewhat smelly place! The cave itself is one of the most holy in Bali, and is believed to be the home of the dragon named Naga Basuki. Hawkers and stall-holders outside the cave are generally very aggressive.

The temple is located in the Kusamba Ranges, on the southeast coast between Kusamba and Padangbai.

Kamasan

This small village near Klungkung specializes in a traditional painting style whose origin can be traced back over 500 years.

It is also famous for gold, silver and brass works which may be purchased directly from local artisans.

Klungkung

Capital of the Klungkung District, this town is known for the famous "Kerta Gosa" court house, with its ceilings depicting the carriage of justice in the form of now extremely fragile wayang paintings. This is really a must see place, set in beautiful gardens, with moats around the open-sided Bale Kampang (Floating pavilions) and the nearby palace. Also located in Klungkung, is the Museum of Clasical Balinese Painting, which is of great interest to those with a cultural interest, and displays some of the best examples of Balinese art.

Klungkung is a clean and well kept city, worthy of a short stay, and certainly a change of pace compared with the busy south, and even Ubud. The coulourful streets are enlivened by stalls that sell many traditional decorative items, such as baskets, and the umbrellas that are used to decorate Balinese temples during festivals.

The area around Klungkung is well known for its metal smiths, especially those skilled in forging bronze.

Most of Bali's royal families are descendants of the Klungkung dynasty, created in the 16th century when the Majapahit empire gathered here in exile after their kingdom in Java fell.

The early capital of the old kingdom, Gelgel is nearby. Little remains of this once powerful capital whose aristocracy were once considered the elite of Bali, although local artists are attempting to revive an interest in antique artistic styles.

The mother temple of Besakih is easily reached from Klungkung, via the road that heads north through Rendang. A short detour eastward from Rendang leads to the small village of Selat, which was wiped out by the eruption of Mt. Agung in 1963.

Kusamba

Not far from Goa Lawah is the seldom visited coastal village of Kusamba, where the resources of the ocean are used to make salt. The beach there is dotted with small huts that are used to store the salt, or to house the salt workers. This is where boats can be caught to Nusa Lembongan (departing about 200 meters from the market) and Nusa Penida (departing about 1.5Km further east).

The outriggers and boats ferry cargo and passangers between Bali and the islands. The fare is around Rp.3,000, and the journeys take from 2 to 3 hours depending on the winds and seas (which can get quite rough).

Lipha (and Gili Biaha)

Reached via a 45 minute boat trip from Padang Bai harbour eastward in the direction of Candi Dasa, Lipha is a genuineBalinese fishing village surrounded by a thick row of palm trees, and is about 3 km from the nearest road.

The village features a fantastic sandy beach, and a coral reef which starts at a depth of 2 m and drops gently to 15 m. The reef is perfect for snorkelling and is also suitable for SCUBA diving.

Local fishermen can be hired to transport experienced SCUBA divers to Gili Biaha, a rocky outcrop about an hour off-shore. The side facing the beach, drops to a 45 degree angle to great depth. A slope covered with soft and hard corals on the open sea side of the rock decends almost vertically into the Lombok strait. Divers report sightings of sharks and sea snakes.

Mt. Agung

Above: Mount Agung, seen from the ferry crossing Lombok Strait.

Bali's most holy mountain, the spectacular Mt. Agung towers more than 3000m over the north-eastern corner of Bali. It is the place of the biggest temple in Indonesia, the Mother Temple at Besakih, and is very popular with hikers who can choose to walk up or down the mountainside with or without guides, or who trek overnight to enjoy the brilliant sunrise.

Nusa Lembongan

Many of this tiny islands visitors find its peace and quiet an ideal foil from the hectic pace of Bali. No transport, no hawkers, and only a few very quiet but comfortable places to stay.

The best way to get here is to catch a boat from Kusamba (near Klungkung), or from Sanur. The village with accommodation and warung is Jungutbatu. Expect to pay from Rp.15,000 to Rp.30,000 per night.

Activities here include swimming, snorkelling, diving, surfing, walking and just relaxing. Local boats may be hired to find the best snorkelling spots. The island has some excellent surf over the reef formed on an old shipwreck (be careful of the dangerous rip, and take care not to get cut on the sharp rocks and coral of the reef--the cuts will probably become infected). The main industry of the island is seaweed farming.

Nusa Penida

A good deal larger than Nusa Lembongan, Penida was once used to exile undesirables and criminals. Today it is home to a culturally rich and distinctive people, whose customs, rituals and architecture differ significantly to those of Bali. Other inhabitants of the island are the birdlife, which include the sulphur crested cockatoo, and the rare Rothchild's minah.

An important temple on the island is Pura Dalem, near the village of Ped. The Pura houses a shrine which is said to be the source of power for practitioners of black magic, but may also offer protection to those suffering the effects of a magic curse.

The best way to get here is to catch a boat from Kusamba (near Klungkung), Sanur or Benoa to the port of Sampalan or Toyapakeh.

Busses and motorcycles can be used to journey around the island, although the roads can be very rough in places. There are a few warung and losmen scattered about the island, so food and accommodation are not a real problem. It is wise however to bring most of the things you will need as there are few shops to cater for tourist demands.

Apart from the normal range of activities, such as swimming, snorkelling, surfing and lying about on the beaches, Nusa Penida offers some spectacular scenery, unique temples, interesting culture, and an immence limestone cave, Goa Karangsari.

The Karangsari cave is just a few kilometers east of Sampalan. Locals will act as guides to help you find the enterance. Be sure to bring your own flashlight to see the stalactites within the huge cavern.

Padangbai (also known as Padang Bai)

Padangbai is best known as the ferry terminal seaport for the nearby island of Lombok. If you make the trip, expect to pay around Rp.8,000 (ecconomy) to Rp.15,000 (first class). Tickets may be purchased at the ferry terminus, or from any of the tour operators in the major tourist centres. The ferries leave every two hours but take several hours to reach Lombok so try to leave early.

Those who decide to stay here will find the three distinct beaches of Padangbai are amongst the best in the east, but are largely ignored by visitors in favour of nearby Candidasa. There are several reasonable places to stay and eat, and there are quite a few shops. Bemo's provide a regular service, and many busses, including Perama can deliver visitors to the ferry terminal, or pick up for destinations almost anywhere in Bali.

Padangbai is less touristy than many other parts of Bali, and unlike many of the villages, it is a Muslim town, which presents a different face and culture to that found elsewhere on the island.

Fishing boats on the beach
Above: Typically seen on the beaches of Bali are the traditional prahu fishing boats.

Putung

A scenic point with marvellous panorama that stretches over beautiful valleys, while the rugged coastline and islands of southern Bali can be seen in the distance.

Travellers seeking a break from the heat will find a few days in Putung very refreshing. Local accommodations take advantage of the views, and offer rooms at faily moderate rates.

Selat

Festivals in Selat attract many visitors to see the famous Barong, which is made entirely of fruit and rice, and is so heavy that it takes at least 20 men to lift it! The local scenery is spectacular, with Mt. Agung forming a splendid backdrop. The village can be reached by bemo's from Klungkung.

Sibetan

Known throughout Bali for it's unusual fruit crop, the salak. This is somewhat like the cross between an apple and a strawberry, and is very sweet. It is the fruit of a thorny palm tree, and is only in season between December and February.

Tenganan

Protected from the outside world for centuries by its walls, Tenganan has maintained a unique and ancient pre-Hindu culture, which includes gladiatorial dances re-enacting the battles of centuries ago. This is the village of the "Bali Aga", a communal society deticated to preserving a cultural heritage that is claimed can be traced back to the reign of King Airlingga in the 11th Centuary.

Tenganan is famous for "Double Ikat" weaving style, known as gringsing, which is said to offer the wearer magical powers.

This fabulous cloth is believed to have originated in India, and is chariceristically colored in shades of red, brown and black, overdyed in indigo and the bark of special roots. As the patterns are dyed into the thread during the weaving process, and overdyes are added only when the natural plant materials are avilable at different times of the year, it can take several years to complete a single cloth. Prices reflect this, and genuine handmade samples of natural materials can be very expensive.

The Bali Aga people live within the confines of their walled village, surrounded by an outer village of "the fallen": those who have not been able to adhere to the strict traditions or taboo's that are required of the pure Aga.

Bali Aga people may not work, except for the tasks that are required in practice of their traditional religious and ceremonial rites. They are provided for by those of the outer village, who are also fed as a result of their toil in farming the Bali Aga land.

Each month a festival is held to honour gods and ancestors, although the most colorful and longest of these is that of the fifth month (June or July). Tourists are welcome, but must dress respectfully, and observe local codes of conduct.

The village is easily accessed from nearby Candi Dasa.

Tirta Gangga (also known as Tirtagangga)

The old bathing place of the former Rajah of Karangasem, which is particuary famous for the ingenious networks of swimming pools. Public bathing is allowed.

Located on the slopes of Mt. Agung, some of the exotic bathing pools were damaged when this still active volcano last erupted in 1963, but the water gardens are a serene and relaxing place to get away from the clutter and noise of the busy tourist traps.

There are some losmen in and around the palace, and several places to eat.

Tulamben

Located on the east coat, Tulamben has a facinating wreck of a US merchant ship, the Liberty, which was sunk during WWII. Today, snorkellers and divers visit the rusty remanents to see the coral, sponges, anemone and the thousands of tropical fish that have taken up residence.

The wreck lies on a sloping shelf just 50 meters from the pebble beach, its' stern only 5 meters below the ocean surface. Within the ghostly hull are thousands of tiny tropical fish, while a thick covering of soft corals have formed on its surface. There are plenty of enterances and exits that make this a relatively safe dive site, and light and visibility are usually good as a bonus. The downside is that this is a very popular dive, so don't expect to be alone down there.

A couple of other dives can be found in the same area, featuring plenty of intact coral and brightly colored fish of all descriptions.

The drive along the eastern coast of Bali (from Singaraja to Candidasa) is one of the most scenic that could be imagined. A trip from either of those places to Tulamben will provide great ocean views from the winding cliff-side road.

Ujung

Just 4km south of Amlapura and easily reached by bemo, this small fishing village hosts an amazing water palace, described by some as a miniature Taj-Mahal. A pavillion of stone animals gaze out to sea, perhaps watching travellers taking advantage of the quitet beach. Some local accommodations are available, but you may have to ask around.